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I had a great evening last night at the Crask Inn. Given that the hotel is some 15 miles from the nearest alternative bar or restaurant all the residents tend to eat together. So last night I found myself sharing a table with couple of cyclists who are also doing LEJOG and a German couple who were touring by motorbike. The meal was excellent (home made steak pie) and the conversations continued well into the bar after dinner! The Crask really is a special experience.
After an equally good breakfast this morning I set off bound for the north coast in a hail of midges. After a brief climb most of the first 30 miles was gently downhill through barren but beautiful countryside. At Altnaharra I turned right onto the less hilly route through Strathnaver. This is Highland Clearances country, and the interpretation boards at the side of the road marking villages that once were served as a sober reminder that this place wasn’t always so deserted.
I reached the coast at Bettyhill, where I stopped at the hotel for a cup of tea and a cake. I then made my way along the coast to Thurso. This section was fairly lumpy, although I have come to expect climbing is inevitable when cycling along a coast! At Thurso I had planned to have a coffee, but it seems Sundays defeat the place and not a thing was open. Undaunted I cracked out the emergency Mars Bar and headed east. The last 20 miles were actually fairly easy going, except for the inevitable headwind, which had upped its game for the last hurrah.
The experience has very much been about the journey and not the destination, so arriving at John O’Groats was never going to be Champagne corks and fireworks. As it panned out, I arrived, took my place in the queue to have my photo taken with the sign and then made my way to the hotel happy that the job was done.
The last 2 weeks has been an extraordinary experience. Watching the country morph through all its forms has been a privilege and an education. I enjoyed meeting the people and hearing their stories. If you are ever fortunate enough to have 2 weeks to spare this is a great way to spend them.
And finally, thank you. Thanks to all who donated, all who supported me daily and all who joined me or met me on route. Thanks for all your support for my charities (you can still donate!). You have raised £1400 (so far) and every penny of it will change lives. Thank you most of all to my very understanding family; without your support this would not have been possible.
Tomorrow – Yes I am getting on the bike again, 17 miles to Wick to get the train south!